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Finally figured I would give this a try. Came home tonight and took out a G22 and a G31.
Did the job on one and left the other alone. Checked triggers before, they were the same.
Checked triggers after, I don't see any improvement. I don't have a sale that can tell me if I took off a 1/4 pound of pull but from what I see I just wasted an hour.

The only thing is now certain areas of some parts shine like a mirror.
To head off the dremel guys. Some areas like the flat parts of connector and trigger bar were dremel done. Firing pin safety and ramp on bar were done painfully slow by hand as I didn't want to change any angles.

A waste of time in my opinion.
 

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What you did won't get you much more then a smoother pull with no reduced weight. I use 2000 grit sand paper to completely smooth out everything, which a dremel won't do. I pay particular attention to the striker block (break edges to round out) and trigger bar ramp. Also the sear and stiker lug get get squared off, just be sure you check engagement with a half slide cover. Those areas are most important. The connector and trigger bar area that engages connector gets a good polish.

If you tried my .25 cent trigger job, you could tell the difference. Trigger bar pulls straight back, barely feeling striker block and stops when the bar engages the sear and ends with a clean brake.

If you need any help feel free to pm me.
 

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Here's a video of me shooting it at my place upstate. I'm a little rusty compared to how I can shoot when I've been training.

 

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I had to look up "Glock 25 cent rigger job" - and- I guess you get what you pay for! While deuburring and smoothing anything to reduce its surface roughness (Ra) will help somewhat, there are some other ways to reduce friction, and evern more importantly in this case sticktion. assuming that you do not want to use an oil or silicone lubricant and have it pick up grit in this area, a TFL dry lubricant can be sprayed on the connector and frame any parts it rubs againt. That costs 40x 25 cents a can but you get enough for about 100 guns. The other thing that can be done is cleaning small steel parts down with acetone and then bringing them to a near boil (195F) in nickel acetate solutiuon to "electroless" plate the parts with nickel.After about 20 minutes, you have a plated surface a few millionths of an inch thick that is created from thin molecular layers of nickel that lay flat against each other (similar to the molecular structure of graphite, but to a lesser degree. It 's a a slightly matte surface but a little bit of polishing of that surface will give you mirror finish parts that glide over each other very smoothly. It also plates very evenly, you don't have to worry about changing parts geometries.An electroless nickel "kit" can be purchased from suppliers like Caswell plating- not cheap but then again, you have practically a lifetime supply. I am using stuff I bought about 15 years ago, still works.

"25 cent trigger job" sounds sexier than "toothpaste on a Q-tip polish" but it'll only get you so far.
 

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OH UNCLE PAUL said:
Finally figured I would give this a try. Came home tonight and took out a G22 and a G31.
Did the job on one and left the other alone. Checked triggers before, they were the same.
Checked triggers after, I don't see any improvement. I don't have a sale that can tell me if I took off a 1/4 pound of pull but from what I see I just wasted an hour.

The only thing is now certain areas of some parts shine like a mirror.
To head off the dremel guys. Some areas like the flat parts of connector and trigger bar were dremel done. Firing pin safety and ramp on bar were done painfully slow by hand as I didn't want to change any angles.

A waste of time in my opinion.
I did the .25 cent trigger job on my 26 last year....did I see any difference? Not sure.....but I thought it was a fun way to waste an hour. :p
 
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