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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK. After a number of stops and starts, out of productions and out of stocks, the scope I have been trying to choose for almost two stinking years has been ordered and has been shipped.
I'll have it in my hot little hands on Monday.
Now I've mounted my share of $50 Tasco's and $80 Bushnells, but I'm stressing on this one.
First time w/2 piece base and first time with anything of this quality and am stressing to get it done perfectly.
Leveling the crosshairs to the bore is where I'm beginning to have a breakdown.
Opinions - can I do this by "eye" or do I lash out and buy a level kit designed for this, or do I sheepishly take it to my go to shop, where I did not buy it, and ask them to do it?
I'm going to need a bit of thereapy over the weekend thinking about this.
Psydaddy? You do call ins?
 

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Putin, the new Ceasar. Veni,Vidi, Vici!
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Stop stressing! Its a scope, not brain surgery! For about $75 you can buy your very own torque wrench and level kit. Or for about $5 you can buy a dollar store level, take out the bubbles, attach them to the flat of the scope with some scotch tape (the same applies to the flat of the rifle, any flat surface will do). Then tighten the rings bolts in a cross pattern, assuming the rings have four bolts on them. They have to be tight, probably tighter than you think.
Or just eyeball the sucker. Works for me...
 

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I done a few with out any special level gizmos
I would first center the scope :this is done easy drop the power setting to lowest then use the bathroom mirror and place the front of the scope on the glass and you can see the cross hairs threw the eye piece and adjust the scope so the cross hairs come together (center)
The next step is to add the base mounts if they are adjustable make the screw equal on both sides just snug:then place the scope on the rings bottom half and add the top caps.I would set the eye relief then just start the screws on the rings .
I would leave them loose so you can turn the scope with out scratching the tube:I use small bubble level and tape one to a feeler gauge so it can level the top of the action and get another level to go on top of the scope cover.
turn the gun and scope so both are level and then tighten up on the screw ;The screw go left front,right rear,right front ,left rear equal pressure and try to get the same distance top of ring to the bottom gap are the same.
The base mount if they are adjustable wind age remove the bolt and at about 25 yards look threw the bore on a dot and move the scope so that the crosshairs align on the same target at 25 yards.
I would tighten again all equal tension on the screws and you should have more then enough adjustment in the scope to get you were you want to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mad Russian said:
Stop stressing! Its a scope, not brain surgery! For about $75 you can buy your very own torque wrench and level kit. Or for about $5 you can buy a dollar store level, take out the bubbles, attach them to the flat of the scope with some scotch tape (the same applies to the flat of the rifle, any flat surface will do). Then tighten the rings bolts in a cross pattern, assuming the rings have four bolts on them. They have to be tight, probably tighter than you think.
Or just eyeball the sucker. Works for me...
Got the torque wrench. No bubbles, but it's a nice cheap idea.
just don't want to screw it up.
I won't get another shot at something this nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the bathroom mirror trick Lonewolf. never heard of it, but I'll add that to my toolkit!
 

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The most important item is get a screw driver that fits
I never used a torque wrench in the last 40 plus years make the screws tight one hand is enough just don't crank the hell out of them no need
Blue lock tight or clear wife nail polish will work
 

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I never learned "the way" to do this properly. What has helped me is to use one of my laser pointers (the kind used for leveling pictures ona wall, that projects a horizontal line). I set up the laser in the backyard, level it perfectly, and point it at a fence so I have a true horizontal running against the fence. I then attempt to set up the scope on my rifle. I set the scope loosely in the rings and using a trial and error approach, keep making adjustments until the rifle "feels" vertical in my hands, and the horizontal portion of the reticle lines up with the projected line. Don't know how it works. Don't know IF it works, but in the end, I somehow get the scope lined up. Sounds like a lot to go thru though.
As for write in therapy, PM me and we can discuss my bill!!!

Dov
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mad Russian said:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=718023

http://www.midwayusa.com/Search/#scope%20level____-_1-2-4_8-16-32

There ya go! Credit card therapy!
Trying hard to avoid that paticular therapy.
Will try the smoke and mirrors, lasers and licorice avenue first.
The other half is not all too calm about this paticular endeavor.
Somehow, she's not buying into it being a sort of hedge against inflation. Imagine that.
And even though I remained gracious during a long visit from six inlaws, that's only going to take me so far.
 

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Joe, I've got a laserlyte bore sighter that has a level and horizontal laser. It's yours to use if you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sgt Squid said:
Joe, I've got a laserlyte bore sighter that has a level and horizontal laser. It's yours to use if you want it.
Thank you.
I'd very much appreciate that.
Thank you.Thank you.Thank you.
 

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Putin, the new Ceasar. Veni,Vidi, Vici!
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Depending on the rings you have, you can also use a strip of friction tape between the rings and scope. It will prevent metal to metal contact, and you can use less torque on the bolts. I have a couple of rings that came with the tape already...uhhh...taped to the rings.
 

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Midway's (Wheeler) Level-Level-Level is pure crapola. The levels don't agree with one another on the same surface. Avoid at all costs.

I bought a couple of one inch (or so) bubble levels from an industrial supply house for real cheap. Work perfectly.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3338a14/=9p0b70
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3329a46/=9p62xn

I also hung a weighted string in my basement. Can't get more pefectly vertical than that. Cost: near zero.
Place the level on the scope rail, mount, or some flat spot on the reciever, small level on the top cap, and check it against the string. Has worked pretty well for me.
I also have this kit (only in 1 inch) if you would like to try it: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=227261
 

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I seen a lot of so call gun shop that charge 20.00 to mount and bore sight a scope :just the other day a guy had one done he ran out of ammo before he could get on paper
I think this tell you something
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
lonewolf5347 said:
I seen a lot of so call gun shop that charge 20.00 to mount and bore sight a scope :just the other day a guy had one done he ran out of ammo before he could get on paper
I think this tell you something
My thoughts exactly.
I ordered the bubble levels - a whopping $5.00, posted by vmtcmt, and hopefully using Dan's supercool boresighter, Dov's laser/fence meathod, lonewolfs mirror voo doo and do the best I can.
Not sure why I'm so stressed over this install, but that's just me.
At the end of the day, it's the shooter, and that of course, is where the big defecit is going to come through!!
 

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hey joe, I've got a torque wrench, lapping bars and compound, level(but think its off) and gun vise, not sure when I'd be able to help, just mounted leupold on new slug gun, goin' to range shaortly~!..anyway, if you want help or to borrow any, lmk...also, I'm pretty sure any shop mounting for 20-25 isn't doing any lapping!...though I must admit, not sure how critical that is though, think it may be more to keep ring marks off tube in case you ever remove..
 
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