new arrows?
Of course i purchased a pse stinger package and was anxious to shoot my bow. After slapping myself 2 and breaking 3 arrows, i now want to replace these and 2 of my brothers. Other then Dicks and Sports authority, are there any other places that sell arrows? Looking for just basic 100 grain arrows with 100 grain field points(dont really need the points but dosnt hurt to have them). Also any place that offers discounts to LIF memebers. Thanks guys.
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Forget about Sports Authority, they have nothing in the Massapequa store.
There are a bunch of bow shops around. I bought Easton carbon arrows at Dick's. You have to cut and glue the inserts yourself. Cutting carbon is a pain, so I left them long while playing around. You can glue the inserts with hotmelt. Some say you shouldn't use hotmelt because it can weaken the carbon shaft, but that's only if heat the insert way too much.
Aluminum is easier, but carbon doesn't bend or dent like aluminum. Another plus for carbon is that its lighter, and I started putting the arrow through the target.
There are a bunch of bow shops around. I bought Easton carbon arrows at Dick's. You have to cut and glue the inserts yourself. Cutting carbon is a pain, so I left them long while playing around. You can glue the inserts with hotmelt. Some say you shouldn't use hotmelt because it can weaken the carbon shaft, but that's only if heat the insert way too much.
Aluminum is easier, but carbon doesn't bend or dent like aluminum. Another plus for carbon is that its lighter, and I started putting the arrow through the target.
100 GRAIN ARROWS ????
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU GET THE NEW ARROWS YOU MATCH THE DRAW LENGTH AND WEIGHT --ADD IN THE CAM TYPE
THERE IS A PLACE IN HICKSVILLE C&B ARCHERY THAT IS A FULL SERVICE PLACE AND HAS A RANGE
HOW DID YOU BREAK THEM ????
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU GET THE NEW ARROWS YOU MATCH THE DRAW LENGTH AND WEIGHT --ADD IN THE CAM TYPE
THERE IS A PLACE IN HICKSVILLE C&B ARCHERY THAT IS A FULL SERVICE PLACE AND HAS A RANGE
HOW DID YOU BREAK THEM ????
I have been using C&B lately. Decent place and have most everything you need. They are in Hicksville.
You should go to a bow shop and have your draw weight and your arrow length checked, there is no such thing as "basic 100 gr arrows", arrows go by grs per inch, usually from 7-12 gr per inch. Shooting to light an arrow or one not spined for your draw weight could cause the arrow and or your bow to fragment/explode causeing very serious harm to you or someone near you. Not to mention ruining your bow.eastplayer87 said:Of course i purchased a pse stinger package and was anxious to shoot my bow. After slapping myself 2 and breaking 3 arrows, i now want to replace these and 2 of my brothers. Other then Dicks and Sports authority, are there any other places that sell arrows? Looking for just basic 100 grain arrows with 100 grain field points(dont really need the points but dosnt hurt to have them). Also any place that offers discounts to LIF memebers. Thanks guys.
I highly recomend Dave at Smith Point archery. Takes 2 min and he'll tell you exactly what arrows to shoot in many different price ranges.
Chris
shooting at a target with a stone backstop and it split the arrows all the way downM14BULLETTS said:100 GRAIN ARROWS ????
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU GET THE NEW ARROWS YOU MATCH THE DRAW LENGTH AND WEIGHT --ADD IN THE CAM TYPE
THERE IS A PLACE IN HICKSVILLE C&B ARCHERY THAT IS A FULL SERVICE PLACE AND HAS A RANGE
HOW DID YOU BREAK THEM ????
Silly rabbit! ;Deastplayer87 said:shooting at a target with a stone backstop and it split the arrows all the way down
You can make a nice backstop out of a couple old blankets and some seat cushion foam from couches people are always throwing away.
Dick's will cut and glue inserts - just has to be when their tech is around... I've had one of their other clowns do them and every single insert pulled out - I had to re-set them with epoxy.Mad Russian said:Forget about Sports Authority, they have nothing in the Massapequa store.
There are a bunch of bow shops around. I bought Easton carbon arrows at Dick's. You have to cut and glue the inserts yourself. Cutting carbon is a pain, so I left them long while playing around. You can glue the inserts with hotmelt. Some say you shouldn't use hotmelt because it can weaken the carbon shaft, but that's only if heat the insert way too much.
Aluminum is easier, but carbon doesn't bend or dent like aluminum. Another plus for carbon is that its lighter, and I started putting the arrow through the target.
C&B and Smiths Point both have nice arrow selections (I think C&B has a wider selection though) but I've had good results with the "cheap" easton carbon raider from Dick's they go on sale for $40/doz often too.
Lol it wasnt that i couldnt hit the target it was because i was not paying attention to my stance and when i was i wasnt making sure that i use the peep sight. Anyone got any idea on other stuff to pick up? I have a whisker biscket, tru glo sight, quiver, stabilizer, and silencers. As well as a case. Its set at 70 weight. Also, im able to use manual and mechanical release. Im practicing now on just being able to judge yardage. The place i got it from says there shop employee was able to get within a 2.25" group. I actually seen it today at different yardage except it was a smaller grouping.
It sounds like you are just starting out. I am by no means an expert archer, but I've been doing itnfor a few years. Judging yardage is far less important at this stage than KNOWING your yardage and shooting from there. Also practicing proper technique is more important than anything at this stage. Aside from that, Mark off 20, 30, 40, 50, and 60 yard distances, shoot them and see the differences. When I practice, I do just this. Then when I am out for real, it makes judging distances simple bc I am used to those distances. IE, "hm...this looks and feels about like the forty yard distance which in my back yard is from the back porch to the garage- one of the shooting distances I practice with.eastplayer87 said:Lol it wasnt that i couldnt hit the target it was because i was not paying attention to my stance and when i was i wasnt making sure that i use the peep sight. Anyone got any idea on other stuff to pick up? I have a whisker biscket, tru glo sight, quiver, stabilizer, and silencers. As well as a case. Its set at 70 weight. Also, im able to use manual and mechanical release. Im practicing now on just being able to judge yardage. The place i got it from says there shop employee was able to get within a 2.25" group. I actually seen it today at different yardage except it was a smaller grouping.
I like C&B archery, friendly people & helpful.
www.cbarchery.net
www.cbarchery.net
Do you really need 70lb draw weight set? I use 55-60 lb and is more than enough.
70lb for plinking? I have an OLD Browning four wheel bow (the kind with real wood and all) I have it set for 45lb, and it will still put an arrow up to the feathers in a high density foam target at 10 yards (limit of my back yard).nyguns said:Do you really need 70lb draw weight set? I use 55-60 lb and is more than enough.
It has a quicker ibo speed which is what i wanted. The quicker the let off more chance of hitting a deer when hunting. The plinking is just so i can get used to the bow and shooting stance correctly. I have about 20 yards to play with in the backyard.nyguns said:Do you really need 70lb draw weight set? I use 55-60 lb and is more than enough.
70lbs is not going to give any real benefit over 60lbs at the ranges you will probably shoot here on LI. It will however suck a little more while you hold and hold and hold waiting for the deer to step out from behind a tree or bush for a clean shot. Ted Nugent hunts a martin bow at 50lbs. A deer that can jump a 60lb bow at 30 yds is going to be able to jump the 70lb bow too. Your better off making sure the bow is as silent as possible. BTW I am a fan of Archery forum in Middle island.eastplayer87 said:It has a quicker ibo speed which is what i wanted. The quicker the let off more chance of hitting a deer when hunting. The plinking is just so i can get used to the bow and shooting stance correctly. I have about 20 yards to play with in the backyard.
Well its got stabilizer and silencer on it, are there any other ways of making it quieter? But i also dont want to risk losing an more speed on the release. It is only shooting 267 fps.
It doesn't matter how fast the arrow gets there, it has to get there. I've seen videos where the arrow goes clean through the deer, or even hogs. Its all about hitting the target.
All these thousands of years people got game with a plain old bow, without peepsights, fancy arrow rests, or fancy arrows for that matter.
Just as in rifle shooting, you can load a round to max, punish your shoulder, and stress your rifle, but the deer doesn't care if the bullet hits it at 3000fps or 2500fps, it'll be dead regardless.
Most shots taken in NYS average less than 50 yards, and that's for rifle!
All these thousands of years people got game with a plain old bow, without peepsights, fancy arrow rests, or fancy arrows for that matter.
Just as in rifle shooting, you can load a round to max, punish your shoulder, and stress your rifle, but the deer doesn't care if the bullet hits it at 3000fps or 2500fps, it'll be dead regardless.
Most shots taken in NYS average less than 50 yards, and that's for rifle!
So you have no idea either huh?Mad Russian said:It doesn't matter how fast the arrow gets there, it has to get there. I've seen videos where the arrow goes clean through the deer, or even hogs. Its all about hitting the target.
All these thousands of years people got game with a plain old bow, without peepsights, fancy arrow rests, or fancy arrows for that matter.
Just as in rifle shooting, you can load a round to max, punish your shoulder, and stress your rifle, but the deer doesn't care if the bullet hits it at 3000fps or 2500fps, it'll be dead regardless.
Most shots taken in NYS average less than 50 yards, and that's for rifle!
Well i was thinking about just practicing for a while before changing anything on the bow or maybe just get a better stabilizer.
AOS has archery supplies and offer discounts to LIF members.
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