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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally, got the rifle set up the way I want:

Rem 700 SPS tactical in .308 w/ 20' barrel
Leupold Euro 3-9x mounted in TPS super low 30mm rings
Harris 6-9" bipod

...all for a shade under $1k

This is my first bolt gun so what do ppl recommend as far as breaking in? Do i shoot and clean after every shot for the first 25 rounds? or do I put a couple hundred rounds down range and give it a good cleaning?

 

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Very nice. Was looking to get it in a 308 or something close to that. When i brake mine in i usually just shoot a couple and clean it. The amount you want to do is up to you. Theres alot of different schools of thought on how to brake it in.
 

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Zombtac Operator
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Congrats. Enjoy!

A .308? Only downside is we don't have any long distance ranges on LI. Gotta head to the mountains upstate (or the Southwest desert :)). Nothing quite like shooting a target all the way on the other side of the valley.
 

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Sharp Shooter!
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looks real good. i was taught to take 1 shot and clean, then 3 shots and clean, then 5 and clean, and 10 and clean. and your done. You will hear lots of differnet ways to break it in. what ammo do you plan on shooting in it?
 

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You Are the Resistance.
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*my* protocols for a new rifle:

Complete, down to springs and pins tear down.

stone/file any stamping burrs/ molding flash in moving parts -NOT trigger hooks/sears, etc.,- think sides of the trigger, sides of the hammer in the pivot area.

I soak all the parts in CLP, and wipe clean, and put a film of grease on pins on reassembly.

I run a CLP wet brass brush from breach to muzzle, and punch it with a jag till dry- not so much for cleaning, as I want to get any dust shavings, etc. out. I am also watching for a nice even resistance through the barrel- I had a Savage with a light spot in the rifling halfway down the barrel when it was brand new, once.

for break in, I use good ammo, run a damp patch through, fire a string of five, wet brush, dry jag, till dry, damp patch, fire five, etc., for the first fifty round. I don't know if it really makes a difference, but I feel better doing it that way.

You will see you groups tighten up in the first 200 rounds, so something is happening to a new barrel in that first few hundred. I am not sure that doing it any particular way makes any difference in how well it breaks in, but that's how I do it.
 

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Putin, the new Ceasar. Veni,Vidi, Vici!
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So, I've been reading up on the subject, and I have learned a few things.

Steel has pores, these pores are opened during the machining process. A cut rifling barrel has the pores opened by the cutting process, as well as leave the rifling very sharp. Some makers will hone the barrel to polish it and remove the sharp edges, some will leave that pleasure to you.
These barrels require some break in to close the pores in the steel, and knock the sharp edges off the rifling. The pores are closed by the carbon, and copper that gets deposited in the grooves and lands during firing.
Button rifling and hammered barrels are different because the steel is actuallu compressed during the rifling process, so the pores in the steel are compressed and are smaller, therefore need less time to fill in with carbon and copper from firing.
In any case, I shoot one and clean, for five rounds. Shoot five and clean for another twenty five.
After that, its go time.
 

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Putin, the new Ceasar. Veni,Vidi, Vici!
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rifleshooter said:
I don't break in barrels anymore. I only clean precision rifles bores if accuracy starts to degrade. I have come to the opinion that it doesn't really matter
When the accuracy starts to degrade the barrel is very fouled with copper fouling. At that point a lot of work is required to clean the copper out. A good quick cleaning after every shooting session is a easier and better.
 

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Just shoot a few rounds then clean, repeat if you feel like it. I usually don't even do that.

There are a number of complex ritualistic patterns that claim to be the best break in process that you can find on the interwebs... A practical shooter should avoid such weirdness.
 

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Mad Russian said:
When the accuracy starts to degrade the barrel is very fouled with copper fouling. At that point a lot of work is required to clean the copper out. A good quick cleaning after every shooting session is a easier and better.
My reasons are a little more advanced the that and based on years of experience as well as bore scoping at intervals over the years. Since fouled bores are more familiar then clean bores I shoot fouled. I regularly make cold bore shots with a first round hit past 600; do you? These are all on guns that shoot better then 1/2 moa.

I actually clean the bores on my non precision rifles and all carbines everytime I shoot them.
 

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ORM-D
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Ooo she's a beauty.  I've been eyeing the same rifle.  Did you pick it up locally?  
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the tip about scope base/mount torque specs.

I purchased the rifle from an out-of-state individual and had it transferred by our Volko friends.
Paid around $550 total for the rifle.
 
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