I would take it to a bow shop to have it tuned.
Help with bow shooting.
I have an older compound bow: a Browning Explorer II (which I got from a board member). I have been plinking with it using Easton XX75 (2217) arrows, shooting at 10 yards, and I have the following problem: the arrows yaw to the right when entering the target. The vertical entry is fine. I notice the feather is striking the bow, which maybe causing the deflection.
I have tried changing arrow rest alignment, increasing/decreasing the poundage like the manual suggested. Nothing helped. I have thought about trimming down the fletching, but how much trimming can I get away with?
I have tried changing arrow rest alignment, increasing/decreasing the poundage like the manual suggested. Nothing helped. I have thought about trimming down the fletching, but how much trimming can I get away with?
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MOVE THE REST HORIZONTAL IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION OF THE IMPACT FIRST.
HAVE YOU PAPER TUNED IT YET????
IF NOT PM ME AND I WILL TRY TO WALK YOU THROUGH IT.
HAVE YOU PAPER TUNED IT YET????
IF NOT PM ME AND I WILL TRY TO WALK YOU THROUGH IT.
Is this the 4 wheel bow ? I think I remember this bow from the late 70's / early 80's . If I remember corectly, this bow only had a rizer mounted arrow rest and was designed to shoot nock feather "out" , like you would shoot a recurve or long bow. The arrow was supposed to be touching the bow. If you put a modern rest on this bow the arrow will be too far out from the bow and you will get severe tail whip, left and right.
Got a picture of it???
Chris
Got a picture of it???
Chris
As the other guys said... we need more info, what kind of rest is on it? Which way are you nocking? (do you have a fletch pointing straight UP, or straight LEFT when you're drawing?)
What poundage is the bow?.... If it's too much for the arrow spine, they may not be stabilizing by 10yds.
Ideally, the nock, rest, and limb bolts will all be in line.
Hrm... it could also be a grip issue.
What poundage is the bow?.... If it's too much for the arrow spine, they may not be stabilizing by 10yds.
Ideally, the nock, rest, and limb bolts will all be in line.
Hrm... it could also be a grip issue.
wow, that baby is ancient!...I wouldn't waste to much time, money or energy on that setup unless yoiur just into the "nostalga" of it...I'm not positive but isn't that a shoot off the shelf bow with not really a rest? I'm thinking thats a hybrid of a traditional bow and a recurve. Trimming the feathers is definately NOT the answer and will make things worse...are you using fingers or release aid? post up some pics of setup, whats the draw length?
It is an oldie, but a goody. Its a four wheel bow, with a spring loaded rest. The rest has a notch for the feather to pass through. I have shot it both ways: nock feather up, and down. I'm doing finger release.
Right now I have it setup so that the rest is way out. Almost ten degrees out of alignment with the flat of the bow.
I hit an 18x18 target six out of six times (all the arrows I have). Its a 60lb bow set for 50lbs.
Right now I have it setup so that the rest is way out. Almost ten degrees out of alignment with the flat of the bow.
I hit an 18x18 target six out of six times (all the arrows I have). Its a 60lb bow set for 50lbs.
go see Dave at Smith Point Archey 215 East Main St Patchogue NY 11772 (631) 289-3399
there behind the Carvel
there behind the Carvel
post a pic of the setup, if its a spring loaded rest like a tm hunter, you cant shoot that very well with fingers...also, 2217 are pretty stiff arrows and will not bend around the riser on release unless they are super long...maybe a softer spine would help. also, not sure what you mean by "yaw"
You're driving down the road, hit a patch of ice....... You're looking out the passenger window because that's the direction you're now going - that is 'yaw' ??)phumb said:post a pic of the setup, if its a spring loaded rest like a tm hunter, you cant shoot that very well with fingers...also, 2217 are pretty stiff arrows and will not bend around the riser on release unless they are super long...maybe a softer spine would help. also, not sure what you mean by "yaw"
Currently on the ArcheryTalk forums, there's a very active "OLD bow" discussion - so don't discount the old beast so quickly!!! Lots of guys shooting them for nostalgia, some retro-bow shoots, etc.
Looking at the charts, the arrows seem right, (2217 spine), so setup, and/or your release technique.
Since you are new, it could be a tuning issue or a release issue, or poor anchor point.
To set the rest, line up the string so 1/3 of the riser is to the left of the string and 2/3 is to the right. Set the plunger or rest so that the tip of the arrow when sighted the same way lies 1/8" to 3/16" to the LEFT of the string. Get this wrong and the arrow will fishtail when shot.
Oberve the action of the arrow when shot over a greater distance to see what it is doing.
Installing a string peep and the nocking point that goes with it may help if your problem is a poor anchor.
To set the rest, line up the string so 1/3 of the riser is to the left of the string and 2/3 is to the right. Set the plunger or rest so that the tip of the arrow when sighted the same way lies 1/8" to 3/16" to the LEFT of the string. Get this wrong and the arrow will fishtail when shot.
Oberve the action of the arrow when shot over a greater distance to see what it is doing.
Installing a string peep and the nocking point that goes with it may help if your problem is a poor anchor.
Forgot to mention, gripping the bow like it's a 1911 can cause a problem like you describe too- just let the bow rest in the pocket of your hand and curl your fingers lightly around the grip.
I only mention this since you are a gun shooter.
I only mention this since you are a gun shooter.
pete, how can you say spine is ok not knowing tip weight, draw length and/or arrow length?...I think the 2217's are in the low 400 deflection, that 4 wheel bow is closer to a recurve than a compound, by todays standards anyway...Parashooter said:You're driving down the road, hit a patch of ice....... You're looking out the passenger window because that's the direction you're now going - that is 'yaw' ??)
Currently on the ArcheryTalk forums, there's a very active "OLD bow" discussion - so don't discount the old beast so quickly!!! Lots of guys shooting them for nostalgia, some retro-bow shoots, etc.
Looking at the charts, the arrows seem right, (2217 spine), so setup, and/or your release technique.
I gave a 1990 Browning bow to a friend who was shooting an old type bow,he tied rubber bands to quiet the string.He took the Browning to the bow shop and is set at 63 pounds and sighted in at 30,20,10 yards.A proper tune with the correct arrows and Whisker Biscuit rest gives him very good performance.Any good bow shop would tell you if the bow is worth keeping.This Browning is a good hunting bow but can't compare to the newer bows on the market.
Was it a Mag Reflex model? I had one of those delam a limb on me and was never able to source a replacement so I have a complete bow worthg of spare parts and some other stuff.Zyka said:I gave a 1990 Browning bow to a friend who was shooting an old type bow,he tied rubber bands to quiet the string.He took the Browning to the bow shop and is set at 63 pounds and sighted in at 30,20,10 yards.A proper tune with the correct arrows and Whisker Biscuit rest gives him very good performance.Any good bow shop would tell you if the bow is worth keeping.This Browning is a good hunting bow but can't compare to the newer bows on the market.
Maybe I should put in WTS.
Paul, you're absolutely right!!!... I looked up the arrows, and did a best-guess of 29" draw (typical) a similar arrow length, and 100grain points (again, typical)phumb said:pete, how can you say spine is ok not knowing tip weight, draw length and/or arrow length?...I think the 2217's are in the low 400 deflection, that 4 wheel bow is closer to a recurve than a compound, by todays standards anyway...
I should have made that clear, but forgot I had made those assumptions between reading, searching, and typing...
Oops!
2
I took some photos of the setup. The first photo is of the arrow nocked in the bow on the rest. Arrow looks like it's square to the string:
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The second photo is of rest, showing where the fletching is striking the bow:
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I have a bow square, and a trigger release coming. I will see if that helps.
The second photo is of rest, showing where the fletching is striking the bow:
I have a bow square, and a trigger release coming. I will see if that helps.
Maybe a silly question, but are the arrows new or old? Were the re-fletched? If so, they may have been done improperly or not fletched for that bow style.
The arrows are new, Easton 2217, uncut with 100 grain heads.
Looking at your pics , you cannot use that rest with that bow , that bow is in fact designed to be shot with the arrow resting on a tab right next to the riser , anything else will place the arrow too far out and cause severve tail whip. You can actually see on the riser where it is worn from the fleching riding along the riser when shot. Like i said before Get a riser mounted tab, shoot nock feather out and your good to go!!! Any tail whip after that ---is you torqueing the bow !!
Chris
Chris
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