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Good article. Can I add two tools to the box?

Instructions on gas blocks usually have them stand off the barrel shoulder by a specified tiny amount. Head over to the auto store and pick up a gap gauge (the flat kind). Check that it has the size recommended. It works wonders.

The second I recommend is a CO2 cleaner you can get at the computer store. I use it for muzzleloaders. After the gas system is installed throw an EMPTY shell or laser boresighter into the chamber. Stick the CO 2 cleaner in the muzzle. Puff the co2 into the barrel and it should blow the bolt backwards if everything is lined up ok.

Both tools are cheap but help in the build.
 

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He is a little lost. Read this part:
While we're talking twist rates, we should mention the potential of over-stabilization. In theory, using a 1:7 twist rate barrel for lightweight bullets could "over-stabilize" your projectile, or spin it too fast. I've never found this to be a problem. I can shoot a 1:8 and 1:7 rifle side by side with multiple types of 55-grain ammo and not see any difference. Whether than becomes an issue at the very light end of the scale, with 35 or 40-grain bullets, I don't know as I've not yet had the opportunity to test rigorously. In the extreme case, again, in theory, using too fast a spin rate for your chosen projectiles could result in faster wear and tear on your bore and the possibility of bullet disintegration. The bottom line is that you're probably just fine using either a 1:7 or 1:8 twist rate barrel, unless you plan to shoot mostly super-light projectiles

Of course there is a problem with too fast a twist rate, when you don't have good case concentricity it causes your groups to open up, and in many case significantly. Ask a barrel maker. This is why the 100 and 200 bench rest guns have a fairly slow twist for the light 6mm bullets.

I'm glad to see he read LaBounty's book... he probbaly should have cited him as a source.
 
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