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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Baseboard heat , oil boiler with indirect hot water heater, 2 zones. Changing basement BB, can I just shut off zones at regulator or do I have to drain the whole boiler?
Also feelings on shark fittings?
Thanks in advance
 

· OnTargetGuy
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1,510 Posts
I have had a sharkbite valve fitting blow off once, but once is enough. Sharkbite work fine, Pex fittings are better and cheaper. I have never had a pex fitting blow off. I like the stainless steel pinch rings rather then the the steel crimp rings, they cost a little more but you don't have to use a pass fail gauge.
 

· Giraffe Hunter
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3,727 Posts
Im in the middle of doing a baseboard install from scratch as well as replacing my boiler and water heater and these http://www.pexuniver...ucing-pex-elbow were recommended to me using the stainless steel crimp rings and oxygen barrier pex tube.

keep in mind there are pex to copper and pex to fitting. One goes on bare end copper and one slips into copper fittings so buy appropriately. Pex universe also has great prices and fast shipping.
 

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95 Posts
Shark bites are now code, but I don't trust anything you can remove with a little plastic U. crimping or wirsbo I think is much better
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info, my main issue was the draining of the boiler. Buy I guess if I shut valve on that zone I am good to go.
The indirect hot water heater was throwing me off also as to the way its supplied if thats an issue
 

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I have used a few sharkbite fittings - but I just don't trust them. First problem is they can rotate once installed. This WILL wear on the O-ring, and the teeth that hold the pipe into the fitting.
Next, O-rings will dry out and shrink over time... 10-15 years and it's going to start to leak.

as for blowing out - when I use them, I measure and mark the pipe to be sure it is seated 100% into the fitting.

Sweating them is easy enough to make the gimmick fittings not worth the risk.
 

· Banned
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19,459 Posts
Baseboard heat is already just a tad thinner than type M, now why would you go back and forth between copper and PEX, and also lose the scavenging you get from a copper return in the baseboard unit? Call me old fashioned, but I just replumbed an entire house and all the supplies are L, all the heat lines are M, and all the waste lines and vents are PVC, except for some iron I had to leave (sub-slab). In the past 15 years or so, I have only bothered carrying leadfree with my plumbing tools also. I also use a tinning flux and never get leaks on my sweat joints. Sometimes I have to repair old joints other people made so I know not everybody is that fortunate and some people seem to be using some really corrosive flux. I have a conceptual problem trusting a little rubber o-ring that I am going to close up in a wall for the next 30 years.

You have a valve on the return, you can close that, but then depending on the system design you may still siphon water THROUGH the circulator if you don't have a dedicated, mechanical zone valve. Even closing that, you may still get water burping out of the baseboard heat for quite some time so it is just easier to open the return valve and let the whole system drain down. You can also blow out the baseboard lines but don't go over about 30 PSI, and put a bucket under the vent tube of your PRV or fill valve for good measure.
 
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