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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my revolver is jammed, some of you tired to help me out at LIF Brookhaven last week. The cylinder turns fine but I can't open it to load. Once before this happened and a RO at the range got it open for me by turning the end of the bolt. I tried this by turning clockwise [with barrel facing me] since that seems the logical way. Does anyone know if this is correct, should I be trying counter clockwise? I am afraid I might be causing more damage by trying this. Is there someone I can bring this too before doing the mail to S&W thing? I am working crazy hours the next 3 weeks but could drop it off if there is a LGS that repairs revolvers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you mean the ejector rod, it is in fact reverse thread.
THANKS, I will try that tonight. Campsite is the closest to me but I am working 8-10 for the next few weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Has the lock but if it was on the gun wouldn't fire nor cylinder turn I believe
 

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Has the lock but if it was on the gun wouldn't fire nor cylinder turn I believe
More problems reported with the lock design. The gun needs to be fixed, the cost of the shipping is around $50.... S&W will probably send you a shipping label.
I have a 686-5 pre lock 7 shot. Most Smith shooters prefer the older models without that hole above the cylinder latch!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I didn't want a lock, but felt lucky to find a 686 new for the price I paid.
 

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I didn't want a lock, but felt lucky to find a 686 new for the price I paid.
The 686 plus Seven shot is a fine revolver. The ejector rod thread is probably coming loose causing the jams.
If you bought it new from a LGS have them take care of it. The price on the older Smith revolver what many call "Pre Hillary Hole"have been fetching more money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the LGS I purchased it from has been shut down by the authorities. Guess which one!
 

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As mentioned, this is a reverse thread. I think on a Smith, if you press on the part of the rod you can see so it does not spin, and rotate the cylinder in the normal (for a Smith) direction, it will screw the rod back in so you can swing the cylinder out. Once you have the cylinder open, you can use a padded pliers to hold the rod while you crank the thread (in reverse) down tight, with or without Loctite. Dunno if Smith will send you a prepaid mailer to return it to them. IMHO, it's such a minor thing that they may consider it a simple, "part of a major cleaning" item and not want to get involved just to tighten the rod.
 

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Snug the rod down, it'll be fine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Snug the rod down, it'll be fine.
2different ro's said not to turn it this way but I did and now it's fine. After about 25 trigger pulls it starts to loosen again. So a little locktite should cure it. Thanks for t for the suggestions.
 

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2different ro's said not to turn it this way but I did and now it's fine. After about 25 trigger pulls it starts to loosen again. So a little locktite should cure it. Thanks for t for the suggestions.
I'd go with a dab of blue. Make sure it's clean and dry first.
Then enjoy the hell out of it, it's a fine revolver.
 

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2different ro's said not to turn it this way but I did and now it's fine. After about 25 trigger pulls it starts to loosen again. So a little locktite should cure it. Thanks for t for the suggestions.
Glad it's working. I have 4 Smith revolvers, have stripped them way down over the years. I take a dense rag, or some other type of durable padding, grab the rod over the padding with a pair of pliers and turn the cylinder with my hand to tighten the rod; for me, that lasts many thousands of rounds without issue and without thread locker. As far as the direction of rotation, IMHO, because the cylinder on a Smith rotates the wrong way (CCW) the thread on the rod is reversed so if there is drag on the rod for any reason the rotation of the cylinder will tend to tighten the rod. I guess your revolver had no drag, so normal rotation was unable to correct for loosening from vibration. Thus if you put your thumb on the rod and operate the trigger (presuming the firearm has no live ammo and you encountered the issue when you tried to reload) or at least get the cylinder to advance normally, the rod should screw back into the cylinder (ejector) and you can once again swing the cylinder out. If the RO's didn't know for certain, my guess is that they were trying to give 'conservative' advice, and right hand threads are more common than left hand, or they are Colt owners whose cylinders rotate CW, the better way.
 
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