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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
5th Knife complete, changed up the style drastically and found it more difficult to get the correct grind, It did not turn out exactly as I had designed but very very close. Stabilized redwood burl handles with 12 coats of a CA finish, 1084 steel. Its great when your friend can stabilize the wood for you, I have some pretty insane handle materials
 

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Really nice.
 
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I really liked the last handle (#4), but I love this one. Great job.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I really liked the last handle (#4), but I love this one. Great job.
Yes, The handle in #4, had great figure which was not expected, when we stabilize the blanks, you can't really tell how nice it will look, its actually difficult to choose due to the differences in wood. I originally intended to put g10 on this knife, but as I was making it, I was surprised at how it was coming out, once I was ready for the scales, I decided I needed to put a dark wood on it, the photos of this redwood burl do not do it justice, the eyes and the figure is very interesting up close. I have quite a bit of different choices of wood from casted burl to just stabilized, I have some really nice walnut burl that I am saving. I like the wood better than the synthetics, but applying the finish is a PITA and time consuming which is why I also like the synthetics
 

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I know it's been asked, but haven't noticed an answer - will you eventually sell?
 

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Nice! - when you say "stabilized: you mean what- acrylic impregnated? They've used that process for about 30 years on commercial parquet flooring.Most finishes, including oils, will "stabilize" wood- and knife handles aren't generally large enough for warping, twisting. checking, and other factors that affect cabinet-size lumber to come into play, are they? Or is this like a dishwasher-safe thing? I don't have any experience with wooden knife handles, the few I've made were for swords and such and used polymers like Avonite and wood accents that were so small they were practically veneers. So I've never really considered what kinds of abuses a knife grip might be subject to. AI as well as solid surface materials can be simply sanded and buffed out if they are damaged without refinishing, which is a plus- but you wrote that you have 12 coats of finish on it- so I'm a bit confused as to what you are actually using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know it's been asked, but haven't noticed an answer - will you eventually sell?
Dan, At this point, I am not ready to sell, I eventually will sell If someone wanted to buy. My thing is this, I want to extensively test my blades under usual use, to make sure there are no problems ( which I have been doing and zero issues) So the answer is, yes I will eventually sell once I feel satisfied with my product.
 

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Great job. Like a lot of hobbies (I made Tiffany Reproduction Lamps for a while) you eventually make more than you can personally use. In my case I started giving some as gifts to family. After that point I went on to selling some at craft fairs along with some more mundane, less costly stained glass items. Getting great at a craft you usually want to keep producing. I found that the hobby paid for itself with some extra money for materials. Let us know when you get to the point of selling. I'm sure you'd have a captive audience here. Good luck.
 

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I think by 'stabilized' he may mean giraffe resistant.

Aside from my joking - very nice work. Have you done any folders yet?
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nice! - when you say "stabilized: you mean what- acrylic impregnated? They've used that process for about 30 years on commercial parquet flooring.Most finishes, including oils, will "stabilize" wood- and knife handles aren't generally large enough for warping, twisting. checking, and other factors that affect cabinet-size lumber to come into play, are they? Or is this like a dishwasher-safe thing? I don't have any experience with wooden knife handles, the few I've made were for swords and such and used polymers like Avonite and wood accents that were so small they were practically veneers. So I've never really considered what kinds of abuses a knife grip might be subject to. AI as well as solid surface materials can be simply sanded and buffed out if they are damaged without refinishing, which is a plus- but you wrote that you have 12 coats of finish on it- so I'm a bit confused as to what you are actually using?
Will, The stabilizing process is different from the casting process when it comes to the wood, the quicker version is this, To stabilize wood, it must have a low moisture content6.5% or less, It is then placed in a chamber, submerged in resin, then vacuumed at about 25 psi, basically replaces moisture and air pockets with resin, The wood comes out at least 2xs the weight that it went in at.

Actually there are many reasons that you would want to use stabilized materials for knife handles. untreated wood, absorbs moisture and moves, also the scales are attached to the steel via epoxy and pins which could further movement cracks also it does make the wood moisture proof, so dishwasher safe, I guess.

As far as impregnated with acrylic, Thats a process of casting which is done under pressure, This whole wood thing all got started from making blanks for duck calls, It just so happens that those call blanks are the perfect size for knife handles.
My friend is the one who figured all this out and who is the call maker.

The finish, It is not needed, as resin is a finish, however if you want it to shine, it needs a finish, I used a CA glue, Actually superglue for the finish.
 
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