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Cerakote handguard

cerakote handguard

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16 replies to this topic

#1 yossarian

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Posted February 01 2016 - 12:01 PM

Picked up a troy delta battlerail on m4carbine for a good price. Thinking of cerakoting burnt bronze along with a new stock to be determined.

Any of you guys done a cerakote job? Does it have to be baked?

Can certain parts be masked off and left black like regular spray paint?

Is dsi offering this service yet?

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#2 DarkStorm

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Posted February 01 2016 - 01:09 PM

We are going to start cerakote again next week starting with FDE, then ODG, Burnt Bronze and Blue Steel, and on from there.
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#3 airbrushart

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Posted February 01 2016 - 02:54 PM

I do Cerakote and Duracoat, what questions do you have besides baking and yes you need to bake Cerakote.

#4 Destro

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Posted February 01 2016 - 03:00 PM

Cerakote and Duracoat as well. (only parts, uppers, barrels, furniture, handguards, stocks, storage containers, no firearms). Currently have all the MagPul colors in Dura.

Can be masked, airbrushed, patterned, free-handed. If you are somewhat handy and this isn't a $3k build you could do Duracoat yourself through an inexpensive airbrush kit (don't use the ready spray can version). It's a good product for the beginner (Duracoat does not need to be baked), but prep is key.

Edited by Destro, February 01 2016 - 03:01 PM.


#5 mattyj513

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Posted February 01 2016 - 05:06 PM

Don't forget about kg gunkote. I waffle over which i like better, the gunkote or the cerakote. Gunkote is a little easier to apply, cerakote is a little better against wear and corrosion. I don't think I've used duracoat since using gunkote and cerakote, imo duracoat offers the lowest protection and goes on much thicker.
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#6 jarheadsergeant

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Posted February 06 2016 - 12:04 PM

I've been cerakoting for years.

The H series needs to be cured, the air dry and microslick don't. They are different products for different applications. The air dry has a high heat tolerance and is also good for stuff like fiberglass stocks that you wouldn't want to bake- some use fill materials like micro balloons.

You can mask stuff if you want- however, you need high heat tape and still need to do the aluminum oxide surface prep. I generally coat are part of don't- or coat different parts different colors.

Burnt bronze is OK, I shot a lot of stuff with it years ago when they introduced it.

If you want to see how fancy you can get- check https://www.instagra...deadline/?hl=en
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#7 dank27

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Posted February 06 2016 - 01:16 PM

Bruce over at hunters essentials did mine in FDE and it came out awesome

#8 Captain Will

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Posted February 06 2016 - 02:11 PM

I've been cerakoting for years.

The H series needs to be cured, the air dry and microslick don't. They are different products for different applications. The air dry has a high heat tolerance and is also good for stuff like fiberglass stocks that you wouldn't want to bake- some use fill materials like micro balloons.

You can mask stuff if you want- however, you need high heat tape and still need to do the aluminum oxide surface prep. I generally coat are part of don't- or coat different parts different colors.

Burnt bronze is OK, I shot a lot of stuff with it years ago when they introduced it.

If you want to see how fancy you can get- check https://www.instagra...deadline/?hl=en


Holy COW, , I followed the link expecting some fades and stencils (meh) but WOW that Dude has some mad skills. I didn't even know some of that stuff was POSSIBLE with Ceracote! I like Gunkote because it has basically zero build, but some people like Duracoat BECAUSE it has high build, go figure. To me, Duracoat makes a gun look plastic.

#9 yossarian

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Posted February 06 2016 - 04:07 PM

How do they do that worn look? Black on top of a color and then brushed/sanded to reveal the bottom color?

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#10 jarheadsergeant

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Posted February 06 2016 - 04:17 PM

How do they do that worn look? Black on top of a color and then brushed/sanded to reveal the bottom color?

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It is a least two or three colors deep. Most of them look at least 3. Some more. Really look at the depth they develop.

My buddy tried 320 wet and got close. I was thinking of cutting it with a buffer. We've had better luck with a full bake in between colors.

Edited by jarheadsergeant, February 06 2016 - 04:23 PM.


#11 jarheadsergeant

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Posted February 06 2016 - 04:22 PM

Holy COW, , I followed the link expecting some fades and stencils (meh) but WOW that Dude has some mad skills. I didn't even know some of that stuff was POSSIBLE with Ceracote! I like Gunkote because it has basically zero build, but some people like Duracoat BECAUSE it has high build, go figure. To me, Duracoat makes a gun look plastic.


I have a buddy who loves gunkote. I don't care for it. Its day has come and gone. I got him into Cerakote 5 years ago or so. He never looked back.

Durakote is Pulane T from Sherwin Williams. I like it for single color stocks. Fast and easy.

Norells is a good thin finish. Real easy to apply- a little stronger than KG

You can do a lot with Cerakote. it is just harder to work with.

We've found adding more hardener for a glossier finish gives a much better finished look. I used to be 24:1 all day long. Now I'm running 48:3, to 12:1- looks way better

Like anything else, the key to good results is the prep work.

Edited by jarheadsergeant, February 06 2016 - 06:05 PM.


#12 5.56

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Posted February 06 2016 - 05:01 PM

We are going to start cerakote again next week starting with FDE, then ODG, Burnt Bronze and Blue Steel, and on from there.

Do you have Magpul FDE or the original lighter one?

#13 Jakef150

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Posted February 06 2016 - 07:03 PM

Wow!

Im curious, how much does it cost to do this stuff ??

Say for ar15

Thanks



#14 jarheadsergeant

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Posted February 06 2016 - 07:57 PM

Wow!

Im curious, how much does it cost to do this stuff ??

Say for ar15

Thanks


Click on his website on the instagram page

a full AR is 400-500 in paint, plus $90 to take it apart and put it back togethr and ship

handguns seem to be in the low 300s

#15 DanTheMan

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Posted March 15 2020 - 11:36 AM

I completely disassembled and Cerakoted my M1A squad scout, scope and mount.  If you use the Cerakote S you don't need to bake it (you might not want to bake some components anyway) but you DO need to let it cure for like 2 days (don't handle parts for 24 hours minimum!)  Prep work is the key, soaked all my part in acetone after scrubbing them down with brake clean.  Also, if the parts have sharp edges you want to break them.  If you parts are TOO smooth you might want to scuff them up with some 220 grit paper (then rub down in acetone again).  My rifle and scope came out pretty good, I'm going to Cerakote all my builds going forward.  Also important to use a good spray gun, filter the Cerakote going in and you may need to thin it a bit. Also be sure to use a filter line dryer on your spray air. 



#16 Phoenix69

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Posted March 15 2020 - 08:24 PM

I completely disassembled and Cerakoted my M1A squad scout, scope and mount.  If you use the Cerakote S you don't need to bake it (you might not want to bake some components anyway) but you DO need to let it cure for like 2 days (don't handle parts for 24 hours minimum!)  Prep work is the key, soaked all my part in acetone after scrubbing them down with brake clean.  Also, if the parts have sharp edges you want to break them.  If you parts are TOO smooth you might want to scuff them up with some 220 grit paper (then rub down in acetone again).  My rifle and scope came out pretty good, I'm going to Cerakote all my builds going forward.  Also important to use a good spray gun, filter the Cerakote going in and you may need to thin it a bit. Also be sure to use a filter line dryer on your spray air. 

 

Any pictures?



#17 DanTheMan

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Posted May 26 2020 - 09:16 AM

Any pictures?

 

I have quite a few, but they're not on photobucket or social media anywhere I could share links to right now.  







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