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Cosmoline Removal


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55 replies to this topic

#41 carguy110

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Posted January 02 2013 - 10:56 PM

I've only done it once. Small metal parts I put in boiling water and wiped clean. The stock I used a heat gun; go in sweeping motions, don't keep it on a single location for too long.

It took about a hour start to finish at a relaxing pace. It came out pretty nice too and I'm satisfied.

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#42 wuggzwest

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Posted January 02 2013 - 11:40 PM

Chemical tank from Brownells, oderless mineral spirits, take the entire
rifle apart, but all pieces on tank then let sit for 24-48 hours. After that time period take a paintbrush and push all the remaining Cosmo off. It should all be off anyway. Take all parts and run them under hot water. Dry them, oil them up nice and assemble rifle back. Iv done it like this in several SKS's and Mosins. Works like a charm and gets rid of all Cosmo.

#43 ztruke

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Posted January 11 2013 - 11:40 AM

Wuggswest, do you put the wood in the chem tank with mineral spirits also? I've read where it may be damaging to the wood.

#44 rlitman

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Posted November 12 2013 - 09:09 PM

I +1 the simple green + boiling water for metal parts


Be careful with that. Simple Green will eat through anodizing on aluminum parts. Not sure what it will do to bluing or parkerizing, but I'd test it before I tried this.

If it were me, I'd use a kerosene soaked rag on the first shot. Probably mineral spirits on the next pass.
I wouldn't get kerosene on the wood though. That smell will take a long time to go away. Mineral spirits on the wood will not be a problem.

#45 DEFCON

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Posted November 12 2013 - 09:17 PM

I boiled all the metal parts and sweat the cosmoline out of the stock over a boiling pot of water

#46 rlitman

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Posted November 13 2013 - 05:10 AM

I boiled all the metal parts and sweat the cosmoline out of the stock over a boiling pot of water


The heat won't hurt the wood, but the humidity will raise the grain. You don't want to do that except in specific controlled situations (this is not one of them).

#47 DanSan

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Posted November 13 2013 - 09:58 AM

oh boy, i have a lot to look forward to when i pick one up.

#48 wuggzwest

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Posted November 13 2013 - 10:03 AM

Wuggswest, do you put the wood in the chem tank with mineral spirits also? I've read where it may be damaging to the wood.


I do not put the stock in the tank. I put a little spirits on a rag and go over the stock gently, then I use warm water on a rag. I like having a little Cosmo in the wood, it doesn't hurt it at all and gives it that historical look. No heat guns, no boiling water.

Odorless mineral spirits eats Cosmo and all grime like a charm. Use a paint brush or tooth brush and work over all the parts. Run them under hot water, dry them and oil them.

#49 Captain Will

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Posted November 13 2013 - 10:04 AM

The heat won't hurt the wood, but the humidity will raise the grain. You don't want to do that except in specific controlled situations (this is not one of them).


If you put a damp rag on it and iron the cosmolene off, it also takes out a lot of the little dings and crushes in the stock.


#50 Strat688

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Posted November 13 2013 - 10:09 AM

If you put a damp rag on it and iron the cosmolene off, it also takes out a lot of the little dings and crushes in the stock.


Do what Capt Will says.....hold iron on damp towel, and shoot some steam into the towel. It's an old guitar trick to get "crushes" out.
The steam will also get cosmo out, but ruin your rags, so make sure you dont use your wife's good towels.

#51 rlitman

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Posted November 13 2013 - 10:19 AM

If you put a damp rag on it and iron the cosmolene off, it also takes out a lot of the little dings and crushes in the stock.


+1 Agreed. That is one of the few applications of steam on wood that works well. Its great to raise a dent in a gun stock, not just guitars.

Back to the mineral spirits, that will act as a degreaser, and will wash off any oils that don't oxidize (like cosmoline, which is lanolin based).
Linseed oil finishes will not be washed off by mineral spirits once they have cured. So, once again, mineral spirits is completely safe on the wood (and metal), although it can leave the metal without any protecting oils at all.
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#52 Captain Will

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Posted November 13 2013 - 10:42 AM

I really prefer 100 percent liguid paraffin (lamp oil) to mineral spirits- even the "odorless" mineral spirits are very err.... "solvent like" for lack of a better term. The lamp oil cost a little more but it makes a great degreaser.

To keep parts from rusting and allow them to be cleaned in water, add some phosphoric acid. I add some to a spray bottle and use for coolant on my machine tools, works great in a pinch and cheap too.
Home Depot. Can use with water in your parts washer as well.
Add a little surfactant like just a bit of laundry soap (does not suds up like dish soap) and rock and roll on your metal parts. Does not seem to strip any finishes either, at least none that I noticed. Will take bright metal to a very light gray film.


#53 lidreamer

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Posted November 13 2013 - 11:08 AM

This is how I did it using hot water. Works great!!



#54 LiveFree1776

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Posted February 04 2014 - 03:57 PM

I'm looking to remove cosmolione and the finish (so i can refinish it) from a stock and hadguard set of ak furniture, do y'all think soaking them in acetone will take care of both of my goals?

#55 Ricekila

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Posted August 24 2017 - 07:33 PM

On other forums resurrecting old thread with new or different info is OK  ------------------------------ sooooooooooooooooo

 

It might be more elaborate than putting the stock in a black trash bag & hoping for the best --- only to see more leach out later --

 

Picture meet 1000 words --

 

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Next post --



#56 Ricekila

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Posted August 24 2017 - 07:39 PM

23-Oct-11_zps2e7f74a6.jpg

 

And a lunch break --

 

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And it works on barrels too --

 

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I get 99.9 % of the crap out of the stock -- after a full day in the hot sun @ full auto -- no cosmo at all --


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