[background=rgb(247, 247, 247)]Hi,[/background] [background=rgb(247, 247, 247)]Maybe this will help someone out there. I have a Ft. Knox Titan with the S&G Electronic lock. I've had it for 15 years WITH NO PROBLEM UNTIL MONDAY! Getting the code to release the bolts became balky. It was working about 50% of the time. The company said to put pressure counterclockwise (as if closing it) and try that. Well, I tried that with them on the phone and it didn't work, tried again and it opened. I said I would try that from now on. BIG MISTAKE. I should have never closed the door cause I've tried all their tricks and suggestions to get it open without success. IMO, never get an electronic lock and if you have one, switch it out NOW for a traditional tumbler lock. At this point I'm assuming it's the solonoid failing to trip. I'm awaiting a replacement keypad and praying then I will switch over to a traditional tumbler style lock.[/background]
[background=rgb(247, 247, 247)]ps. if you doubt what I've said, do a search on Gun safe electronic lock problems and make your own decision. YMMV[/background]
Thanks, batteries that were in it were only 6 months old. Swapped them out with fresh duracells and still NG. Tried even another set. Yes it takes 2 9volt batteries.
First they thought it was the locking bolts jammed up. That isn't the problem. Tried then with a rubber mallet below and to the right of the keypad. Tried it ALOT. Still NG. I won't get the new keypad until Wednesday. They only ship ground and it's coming from Utah. That is unless I wanted to pay $70 for them to ship overnight.
A new keypad likely isn't going to help. The brains and motor are on the inside.
I'm 99.999% sure that your issue stems from one of two possibilities:
1) bad batteries
2) side pressure on the bolt.
So, once you've ruled out batteries, the next question is what's wrong with your boltwork. Not the locking bolts in the door frame. These are moved by your handle. The handle turns the cam, and the cam is locked in place by the lock that is giving you trouble.
Ok, yeah this isn't an electronic lock, but it gets you the general idea.
That roundish plate on the right (with the nut in the middle and the bars pinned to it) is the cam. The lock is made up of that open rectangle on the left, with the solid rectangle (the bolt) sticking out of it. That solid rectangle needs to retract, and in your electronic lock, it is driven by a TINY (read: weak) motor inside the lock.
The motor has just enough power to retract the bolt, but not enough power to retract the bolt if something is pushing on the bolt, creating friction. That something has to be the cam. This picture shows how if the cam is rotated clockwise, that lip can hang up on the bolt. It is likely however that instead of a lip, your cam has a slot that the bolt fits into, so turning it too far in EITHER direction may hang it up.
See if you can turn the handle up and back, to feel its range of motion. It's got to have a little wiggle room. Try to leave it in the middle of that range, and then try unlocking it again.
Thanks, I've tried that but continuing to do that is my only option before I get the new key pad. I WANT TO SAVE OTHERS THE NIGHTMARE OF AN ELECTRONIC LOCK. Thanks
A good mechanical lock will last a long time and cause zero issues. I've seen ones from the 1970s that work just fine with zero issues. And no, an S&G, Lagard or Ilco mechanical combination won't give you quick access but there are other items that will for day to day or short term storage & access.
So keep us posted I have a few safes with electronic locks love them. Never an issue guess if I have a problem I'll hate them quick enough. Wonder would it pay to get a replacement electronic lock just incase?
Don't drill any hole in any safe door if you don't know what your doing! Problems just get a lot worse. Don't use WD40 on safe linkages, bolts etc. Grease, white grease, Aero shell lube grease or just about anything with a consistency of peanut butter. Very small amounts on contact points ONLY! Don't slop it on likes going out fashion. Of course, gently clean the linkages and bolts with a rag & WD by wiping them clean of old and dry lube, then apply grease, lithium grease etc in very small amounts on contact points only. Never put grease or lube on wheels or wheel packs! Also clean the points/areas where the door bolts extend into for dust. debris. etc. Vacuuming out a entire safe once a year is not a bad thing as that as when you should be replacing your desiccant and inspecting you're other method of dehumidifiing, yes use two!
I have an electronic safe with a key override. One day punching in the code a static shock hit the pad from my finger and fried the motherboard. If I didn't have an override key I wouldn't have been able to get in. Got a mother board from Sentry in like a week.
Michael Bane had an electronic lock fail on him back around 2008. It was classic series of rants as he tried to get service/open it. Google it. There are multiple failure points in elect lock. Including wiring/solder connections, chips, keypads etc. Not worth it in my eyes. Go mechanical lock with a key that holds position of dial.
If the power in your house goes, or you're operating under minimal light for security reasons, I don't need to see the numbers on my electronic lock. The keyed sequence of numbers is committed to memory feel. You can't do that with a tumbler.
My oxy-acetylene rig is the backup for my plasma cutter, which probably IS very EMP vulnerable. I've got a 14" demolition saw too (and other steel cutting options). All this talk of SHTF, I'm not all that worried about being locked out of my safe(s).
let me start by saying I do not have children living in my house, I keep a loaded HD gun (concealed) with in easy reach in the master bedroom and all my other firearms are in a safe. i do not want to have to fumble with locks, if I need my weapon fast. in my mind what good is a gun if you dont have time to get it.
Me too. I've got a .45 in arms reach and a 12 ga a few steps away.
Between the two they should get me to my safe with the S&G mechanical lock.
I've hear too many issues with electronic locks. It's not a matter of IF they fail but WHEN.
If you need to lock up, keep a pistol in a small safe with quick access and the remainder in a safe with a mechanical lock that will last much longer.
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